What to do in Istanbul on a rainy day

Istanbul gets its share of rain, especially between November and March. It doesn’t have to ruin your day. My advice is to pick one area and build the day around two indoor places close to each other, with a long lunch in between. That way you spend more time inside enjoying the city and less time crossing it in wet shoes.

Here are the indoor options I’d choose from, and two easy ways to combine them.

Start underground: the Basilica Cistern

The Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnıcı) is an obvious first stop if you’re near Hagia Sophia. It’s a vast underground water reservoir from the 6th century, with wooden walkways between rows of marble columns, and it’s just as atmospheric on a grey day as a sunny one.

Take your time walking to the two Medusa heads at the far end, which were reused as column bases. On the way, look for a column covered in carved teardrop shapes, sometimes called the Weeping Column. It’s easy to walk past while you’re looking at the water. Stop where the walkway is wide enough to let others pass.

The visit is indoors, but you may have to queue outside. Opening hours change with the seasons, so check the current hours and ticket price before you go. If stairs are difficult for you, contact the cistern before your visit to ask about access.

A second, smaller option nearby is the Şerefiye Cistern, also called the Theodosius Cistern, a short walk away near Çemberlitaş. I’d choose one cistern and spend the rest of the morning on something different. The Basilica Cistern is also one of the stops on my Old City walk.

Spend the rest of the morning in a museum

From Sultanahmet, walk a few minutes to Gülhane for the Istanbul Archaeological Museums. The museum is spread over several buildings, so there’s a short walk outside between them. On a wet day, focus on the main Archaeological Museum and treat anything else that’s open as a bonus.

Start with the Alexander Sarcophagus, a marble tomb carved with battle and hunting scenes. Walk slowly from one end to the other: the figures are easier to follow if you look at one small group at a time.

If you’re on the other side of the Galata Bridge, choose Istanbul Modern, the modern art museum on the Karaköy waterfront. Look at what’s on before you go and decide which exhibition you’d like to see first. Note that the museum is closed on Mondays.

Wander the covered bazaars

The Grand Bazaar (Kapalıçarşı) is one of the best places in the city to spend a rainy hour or two, with dozens of covered streets to explore. Take the T1 tram to Beyazıt–Kapalıçarşı and save the name of the gate you enter by on your phone. Pick one or two things to look for, such as a ceramic bowl or a cotton hamam towel, and compare a few shops at your own pace. My Grand Bazaar guide explains how bargaining works.

The Grand Bazaar is closed on Sundays. For a smaller covered market near the ferry piers, go to the Spice Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı) in Eminönü, and check its opening hours if you’re planning to visit on a Sunday or a holiday.

The streets between the two bazaars are open to the sky, and the walk down through Mahmutpaşa is steep and slippery when wet. If it’s pouring, take the T1 tram between Beyazıt and Eminönü instead. Keep your rain jacket handy for the short walks from the tram stops to the market entrances.

Warm up in a hamam

A hamam is a Turkish bath, and a rainy day is the perfect excuse to try one. The traditional treatment is a kese, a scrub with a coarse mitt, followed by a köpük, a foam wash. If it’s your first time, ask exactly what the basic package includes before you book.

The historic Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı in Tophane, near the Tophane tram stop, has separate hours for women (during the day) and men (in the evening). If you’re travelling as a couple, you’ll need to go at different times. The hamam recommends booking ahead, so reserve as soon as you know you want to go. Ask what to bring, how long the visit takes and the current price.

Because it’s close to the Karaköy waterfront, Kılıç Ali Paşa pairs well with Istanbul Modern if you can fit both into your day.

Take a long lunch or a café break

When the rain is heavy, I’d sit somewhere near my next stop and let it pass. In Karaköy, order cheese börek with a glass of black tea. If you want something sweet, look for sütlaç, rice pudding, or fırın sütlaç, the baked version with a browned top.

For a longer lunch around Sirkeci, find a lokanta with cooked dishes on display. A bowl of soup is the classic rainy-day order. Ask Bugün hangi çorba var? (“What soup is there today?”). You’ll find more places to eat and drink in What to Do in İstanbul.

Take a ferry if it’s only drizzling

If it’s only drizzling and the ferries are running, take the short crossing from Eminönü to Üsküdar. Find a window seat inside and look back at the Old City as you leave. If you’d like lunch and more time on the Asian side, take the Kadıköy ferry instead. My post on the Bosphorus by public ferry has more details.

Strong wind and fog can delay or cancel sailings, so check Şehir Hatları’s service announcements for your trip there and back before you head to the pier. If crossings are disrupted, stay on the side of the city where your hotel is.

Two rainy-day plans

Plan 1: Sultanahmet. Basilica Cistern in the morning, lunch at a lokanta, the Archaeological Museums in the afternoon. Add the Grand Bazaar if you still have energy (but not on a Sunday).

Plan 2: Karaköy and Tophane. Istanbul Modern in the morning, börek and tea or a long lunch in Karaköy, then a booked session at Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı in the afternoon. Don’t try this one on a Monday, when the museum is closed.

My tip

Choose one of the two plans before you leave your hotel, and put lunch between the two main stops. If the weather clears, add the bazaar or a ferry ride, whichever is closer. Rain also means smaller queues outside, so a wet day can turn out to be a good day for sightseeing.