The Bosphorus by public ferry: three routes I recommend

If you want to see Istanbul from the water, start with a city ferry. From Eminönü you can cross to Kadıköy for lunch or to Üsküdar for a waterfront walk, using the same card you use on the tram. And if you want to see the full length of the Bosphorus, the city ferry company, Şehir Hatları, runs a day trip up to Anadolu Kavağı near the Black Sea.

Why take a city ferry first

A regular ferry fits into a day you’ve already planned. You can spend the morning around Sultanahmet, walk down to Eminönü, cross the water and spend the afternoon on the Asian side. On the way you get one of the best views of the Old City, and when you arrive you have a whole neighbourhood to explore.

A private sightseeing cruise makes sense if you want commentary or a round trip that brings you back to the same pier. Choose a city ferry if you’re happy to watch the view, get off somewhere new and come back when you’re ready.

Keep in mind that the short crossings only show the southern end of the Bosphorus. To see the wooden mansions, fortresses and villages farther north, you need the long trip described below.

Eminönü to Kadıköy: lunch and a market walk

This is the route I’d suggest for a first ferry ride, because it leads somewhere worth spending a few hours. At Eminönü, look for Kadıköy on the departure board. Ferries on this line can also stop at Karaköy, so check the departure times for the pier you’re actually standing at.

As the boat pulls away, look back at the Old City. Facing forward, the right-hand side gives the best view of the historic peninsula, with its domes and minarets. A spot near the back of the boat also works well if you want to watch the skyline shrink behind you.

From the Kadıköy pier, walk inland to the market streets. For a proper lunch, look for a lokanta, a casual restaurant where the cooked dishes are on display and you can point at what you want. For something quicker, try a lahmacun with an ayran, a cold, salty yoghurt drink. Afterwards you can walk on towards Moda or head back to the water. I’ve listed more food and photo stops in What to Do in İstanbul.

Eminönü to Üsküdar: a shorter outing

Choose Üsküdar if you want time on the water without giving up most of your afternoon. The crossing is short, and some boats on this side of the city also call at Karaköy, so check the board at the gate before you tap in, especially if you need to come back to a particular pier.

As you approach the Asian shore, look out on the right-hand side for the Maiden’s Tower (Kız Kulesi), the small tower on an islet off the coast. If the deck is crowded, save your photo for later. From the Üsküdar pier, walk south along the waterfront towards Salacak for a clear view of the tower from land.

This crossing also works well after my Old City walk. After a morning around Hagia Sophia and the Hippodrome, it’s satisfying to look back across the water at the places you’ve just visited.

The Long Bosphorus Tour to Anadolu Kavağı

Look for Uzun Boğaz Turu, Şehir Hatları’s Long Bosphorus Tour. Choose this one if the Bosphorus itself is what you want to see. The boat sails north from Eminönü with a few stops, including Beşiktaş, Üsküdar and Sarıyer, and ends at the fishing village of Anadolu Kavağı. You have a few hours there for lunch before the boat sails back to Eminönü in the afternoon.

Plan to give it most of the day. The current timetable has one departure from Eminönü in the morning and one return in the afternoon. Check both times before you go, and set an alarm for the return so you can enjoy lunch without watching the clock.

Going north, sit on the left (facing forward) to watch the European shore, or on the right for the Asian shore. On the way back the sides swap, so you can watch a different shoreline on each leg. Near the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge, look for the stone towers of Rumeli Hisarı, the fortress on the European shore. On the Asian side, watch for the waterfront houses around Kanlıca.

Anadolu Kavağı is a small fishing village with seafood restaurants lining the waterfront. If you eat by the pier, check the menu prices before you sit down, and keep an eye on the time so you’re back at the pier before the return boat leaves.

How to pay and find the right gate

On the regular crossings to Kadıköy and Üsküdar, you pay by tapping an İstanbulkart at the gate. Fares depend on the route, so leave enough balance for the return. If you’re sharing one card, each person needs a separate fare in each direction. My guide to using the İstanbulkart explains how sharing works.

The Long Bosphorus Tour is priced separately from the regular crossings, and there’s a separate fare for foreign visitors. At Eminönü, go to the official Şehir Hatları ticket office and ask for Uzun Boğaz Turu. If you’re coming back on the same boat, ask for a gidiş-dönüş (return) ticket and keep it with you until you’re back in Eminönü.

When to go

For a short crossing, late morning is pleasant and less crowded than the commuter rush. For the best light on the skyline, take a return ferry in the late afternoon, before it gets dark.

The last ferry of the evening depends on the pier, the route and the day of the week, so check the timetable before you sit down for dinner on the other side.

• Give yourself extra time at Eminönü to find the right pier and top up your card.
• Fog and strong wind can delay or cancel sailings. Check Şehir Hatları’s service announcements on the day.
• Bring an extra layer if you plan to sit outside. It’s often windier and colder on the water than in the streets. If it’s too much, move inside to a window seat.

My tip

For a first visit, take the Kadıköy ferry around lunchtime. Look back at the Old City as you leave Eminönü, have lunch on the Asian side and come back before dark. Save the trip to Anadolu Kavağı for a day you can spend entirely on the Bosphorus.